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Marie Ferro demonstrates proper color correction

Color correction is always the trickiest part of the professional color business, but there are some slick techniques coupled with wise color selections that can make every correction a big success. This month, colorist Marie

"Because most of my clients are in the entertainment business, they've presented me with plenty of color correction challenges over the years. Hair is a major tool in portraying different characters on-screen and, because show business is all about image, it's equally important that their haircolor designs look drop-dead gorgeous off-screen.

To ensure an excellent result every time, I believe in always thoroughly evaluating the true condition of the hair-something that can often be clouded by haircare products, unless you shampoo the hair first. Prior to applying every corrective color formulation, I use Malibu Wellness Actives to remove any mineral, medication and product buildup on the hair. Then, I apply Goldwell System Pre Color Spray to even out the porosity.

About This Color

The challenge with this particular model was matching her dark regrowth to her overly porous midshafts and ends, while creating believable, multidimensional results. Once I created the formula for each specific issue-dark regrowth; porous, bleached midshafts; and even more porous and severely bleached-out ends, I was able to systematically correct each section simultaneously, which is better for the hair's condition plus it saves incredible amounts of time.

Because her regrowth naturally pulled more warmth, I chose a cooler color to control the heat in this area. In areas where the hair was over-processed and too much warmth had been removed, I used a warm filler and created a warmer color formulation. I never overlap bleach on this type of hair to avoid even more damage and possible breakage.

Teaching clients how to properly care for their at home-especially using the right products for their hair's needs and conditions-is also so important! If you don't do this, all your hard work could end up quickly fading away . I really like the Phyto products, as they are specific to each client's needs; they're also incredibly gentle on the hair. The Phyto 7 that I recommended for this client is a leave-in conditioner for over-processed hair; it helps to restore strength and shine. —Marie Ferro

[for•mu•la bar]: 

Colorist: Marie Ferro
Haircolor: Goldwell
Natural Level: 6
Existing Haircolor: 21/2" regrowth; level 10 midshaft with gold tone; last 6" level 11 pastel tone
Hair texture: Medium-coarse
Hair Condition: Healthy at the regrowth area, balance very dry and over-processed
Prework: Malibu Wellness Actives Color Prepare to remove buildup; Goldwell pre-color spray to even out porosity.

Precolor: Filler-10mls KK Mix (copper); 20mls GG Mix (gold) + 90mls water
Base #1: Regrowth-Topchic, 15 mls 6N (dark natural blonde), 15 mls 6SB (silver brown) + 20-volume developer
Base #2: Regrowth to ends-30mls 6BG (dark blonde brown-gold), 10mls 6A (dark ash blonde) + 20-volume developer

Dimensional Colorations
Highlights: Silklift (decolorizer) + 20-volume developer and 1 Silklift conditioning serum
Glaze: Colorance, 20mls 10SB (pale silver-beige blonde) + Colorance lotion
After Care: Phyto Phytocitrus Vital Radiance Shampoo and Mask

Section hair into 3 football sections: The 1st section is in the front from the end of the eye to the end of the opposite eye; the 2nd section is Right Back, 3rd section is Left Back. Clip crown section in-between 3 football sections.
Apply Base #1 from scalp to regrowth line on remaining hair outside and around the football sections, including the center section in-between the three shapes.
Apply filler over the precolored hair in the same sections, from the regrowth line throughout the ends. Work the pre-pigment in well. Paper towel blot excess filler off hair.
Diagonal brush stroke Base #2 to blend formulas at the demarcation line.
Apply strips of foil over colored sections to protect football sections.
Create diagonal/horizontal slices inside the football sections. First slice: Apply Base #1 on regrowth and Filler to precolored hair. Then apply Base #2 from demarcation line to ends, smudging the dividing line as outlined in Step 4.
On the next two slices, apply Highlights formula on regrowth only, beginning 1/8" from scalp. Omit precolored hair to avoid over-processing.
Continue same pattern: one lowlight to two highlight slices throughout the football shapes.
When complete, process for 30 minutes. Rinse out areas in-between football sections first, then remove all foils and shampoo well. Do not condition. Apply glaze at sink, process for 10-15 minutes. Rinse with water only and condition.

Photographer: Gary Lyons;
Colorist/Stylist: Marie Ferro;
Makeup Artist: Christina Farrell;
Tools: Karg Shears;
Wardrobe: T- shirt, LnA